![]() I"ve worked on anvils on larger thumblatch forgings that the anvil indeed needs to be cooled periodically. My anvils are all in the HRC60 range, and much better quality steel. These welds also broke fairly fast and we found out why someone was pouring water over the red hot weld (and thus hardening it ! ). We also found spots were it was almost HRC 60 right before and after a weld. The hardest rail we've found was around HRC 50. However they do not become near as uniform or as hard as a proper carbon steel that is heat treated correctly. They work harden by plastic deformation, and as such make a good durable rail - the more trains cruise over them the harder they get. It isn't very different from O1, just a lot less consistent and O1 has some vanadium and tungsten to make it a better knife steel. ![]() The quality is also the reason very few damascus makers will use it in pattern welded steel, although it makes nice dark lines due to the manganese content. You could get lucky and have a nice and clean piece of which you could make knives. As such, I wouldn't use it for knives or things with delicate cutting edges but it's good for axes and splitting mauls. So bad even that Railroad track seems to absorb moisture if you put in in a bucket of water. Lots of inclusions casting artefacts and variability in quality. However it's a fairly "dirty" steel for all intends and purposes. These are mangenese-carbon bound, as the typical modern RR track is essentially C80 or 1080 steel with about 1% manganese and between 0.15 to 0.6 % silicon inclusions. Well I know a fair bit about workhardening in railroad track type steels. Why make uneducated guess when the information is available? HOWEVER work hardening is NOT a replacement for proper heat treating and proper alloy choice as you can get much higher hardness values through Heat Treatment than work hardening. Some alloys work harden faster than others. Having the apprentice plannish the face of a softer anvil to harden it up is described in some older smithing books. Working hot steel on the face of your anvil will not produce dislocation climb and thus removing work hardening from the face because it's not hot enough either. I've known professional smiths whose large work was such that they boiled the kettle for their lunch tea on the anvil but still under 451 degF. Working hot steel on your anvil will not draw temper on it UNLESS you get it up to over around 500-600 degF hot enough that if you place a piece of paper on it it will burst into flame. Mythril has been known to also be spelled and said as mith, mithral, and mithril.Working hot steel on the face of your anvil will not harden it as the face has to be hot enough to glow before any of the types of quenching can work.Mythril appears in other games, such as RuneScape, Guild Wars 2, Diablo II, World of Warcraft, Shining Force II, Chrono Cross, Final Fantasy, Zenonia 3, Xenoblade Chronicles, NetHack, Golden Sun, and The Elder Scrolls IV: Oblivion.Mythril or "mithril" in the books resembled silver, was stronger than steel, and was lighter than both of them. Mythril Ore is a weaker alternative to Orichalcum.You'll need to find 740 Mythril Ore if you want to craft every item that needs Mythril Bars to be crafted (including the Mythril Anvil, the 3 types of Mythril headwear and a stack of 5 Light Discs).Most Mythril Ore can be found in The Underworld via the ceiling.10 Mythril Bars are required to craft the Mythril Anvil, a crucial item for any Hardmode player.
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